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Entries in Bodycare (30)

Monday
11Jan2010

Tried and tested: evolve beauty eco smart skincare

The panic I felt just days before my most recent trip to London made my ears ring and my skin burn... wait. My skin was burning for other reasons. In fact, it was the impetus for my panic. I was stumped. Why had made my face go red, tight, bumpy and scaly (from temple to nose) and hot (no, not as in Angelina hot... as in to the touch) right before I was meant to board a plane for a week of back-to-back meetings with beauty industry folk?

Two things caused it, I have no doubt. One, my skin went on a 4-month makeup and skincare detox this summer that even the most cosmetic ascetic among us wouldn't be able to maintain by choice. On my around the world honeymoon-in-a-tent, makeup didn't touch my face, nor did anything, really, but a bar of soap and whatever moisturiser I had at hand. This period of skin calm was destroyed by a tsunami of new skincare, makeup and urban living in late October, when, in one fell swoop, I returned to dozens of products. Within a month, my face was radiating heat, the texture and colour angrily undulating and it became painfully clear that spot cream wasn't going to clear it up.

The second thing that dovetailed so conveniently with my hot-and-cold treatment of the cutis, is the onset of a Chicago winter. What on god's green earth keeps people living on such an icy tundra with such poor public transit? It's so cold there's no moisture (it's been at least 15 degrees below freezing for days) in the air. It's also as flat as a dinner plate, so no skiing here and ice rinks are strangely far and few between. It's moisture-free, wind-swept outdoors or drying, heated indoor spaces for me.

But as panicky as I became, it was comforting that my industry of choice wasn't, say, fashion, the most unforgiving (and backwards, in my opinion) of them all. Beauty people are fascinated by conditions and questions and how to fix them. My problem was greeted with genuine interest (not of the schadenfreude variety) and desire to find a solution, on which we all agreed.

It was clear I had to go cold turkey on the beauty bumpf until the flare up subsided and then, gradually, work my way back into a very simplified routine with simple products. An exclusion skincare diet was not on the table as the problem needs to be nipped in the bud immediately. Easier said than done when beauty products are your professional fodder! Facialist Emma Hardie was ardent that I stop using everything and then re-introduce slowly, and she was absolutely right.

Click to read more ...

Monday
04Jan2010

Year in review 2009

HERE'S OUR ROUND UP OF THE BEST, WORST AND MOST SHRUG WORTHY OF 2009

It was a strange year... deep in the depths of a recession that's having a so-called 'jobless' recovery [read: not recovering] and the end of a transformative (good and bad) decade worldwide. Lest we stray and get all serious, without further ado, our 2009 List:

 

BEST of

 

The coolest, cleverest and most exciting things in beauty last year...

 

 

ELLIS FAAS - This range has innovative (and clever) packaging, it's stylish and subtle and the colours are beautiful, moody and the Ellis Red is one I hope to see around (and use) for years.

THE PREEN POWER DRESS - Looks good on everyone, even Amy Winehouse and the two baps she's smuggling on her chest.

MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN BUBBLES - Yet another innovative and playful product. Using bubbles to create a home fragrace. Whimsical and beautiful. What a great addition to the beautyscape.

LIBERTY BEAUTY HALL - I mean... it just gets better and better every year. Bravo. By far the coolest bricks and mortar place for beauty with some pretty cutting-edge brands.

LIVING PROOF no frizz - It's like teflon for the hair, so it keeps it frizz free but doesn't weigh it down like traditional anti-frizz serums do. Even good on thin, fine hair. Science being used for good, I say.

NICHE SKINCARE - 2009 was a beautiful year for niche brands and the free flow of foreign brands to new lands... evolve beauty, Absolution unisex skincare, Nature Girl, Nia, MV Skincare et al. It's a fine time for consumers on the prowl for something new and, possibly, quite good for you.

MIDDLE EASTERN SCENTS - Never ever before have I liked heady, syrup-y, smoky scents, but it was love at first sniff for me all because of Amouage Epic. We re-entered a bygone era perfume and, god damn it, I like it.

RENAISSANCE OF COCO - CHANEL and its namesake were everywhere this year, and we will happily be sporting our CHANEL badges and our Rouge Coco lipstick (launching February) straight through 2010 as well. We loved the movies, have the book on hold at the library and are over the moon about a strong, unique, truly accomplished woman being at the forefront of media attention again.

HOME FRAGRANCE - Frederic Malle, Hermes, Prada... everyone is getting in on the home fragrance game, with funky products like rubber incense, scented paper and diffusers. Haute fragrance for the home.

THE RECESSION - No, I know, the contracting of an economy does not feel good, but hopefully you did buy less useless shit this year, and that includes beauty products you never intend to actually use.

PACKAGING - Rob Ryan for Snowberry, evolve, Elis Faas, Le Metier de Beaute, Andrea Garland, Model Mirrors... The list goes on. Many are clever and beautiful, making our daily routines that much more streamline and pretty (and maybe a touch more environmentally responsible too).

Click to read more ...

Tuesday
17Nov2009

5 hand balms for bitter winter weather

Every year, in the non-equatorial world, it gets cold. When it;s cold, it's dry. And almost immediately, my skin starts to crack and itch. Set the clocks back and cuticles start to peel away on cue, finger webbing gets all ashy and the backs of my hands age years. It's a hot look... not really. It's distracting and painful, mostly. I run several humidifiers at full whack in the house but can't stuff one in my bag for the road so hand balm it is when away from the tropical confines of my living room. Don't leave home without one of these five balms this winter (and if you happen to live in the Southern Hemisphere, start stock piling now for autumnal climes to come). While not all of these are necessarily hand balms, all come in sizes small enough to pop into your handbag without a problem. Find out which five work best in winter weather...

Click to read more ...

Tuesday
13Oct2009

Young, hip and... thoughtful? Meet evolve beauty eco smart skincare

There's been a shift in the beauty landscape in recent years with the widespread greening (and greenwashing) of the industry. Virtually all brands have jumped aboard the organic/natural beauty bandwagon, but how many have truly embraced the idea that it's good business to be a good business?

Innocent and Method both work to the hum of this mantra, but, by and large, there are a select few in beauty who do as well. And so many that do are niche players. Neal's Yard Remedies, nude, InLight or Saaf, among others, are all brilliant, holistic brands I readily use... but they're just left of center on price point and youth appeal for consumption by the beautiful-but-broke up-and-comers who simply can't pony up that sort of dosh but still want a quality product. Simply put, so much design-led, good organic beauty has been pricey to this point. There's been a gap where this accessible, cool, ethical beauty market should be, and it's swiftly starting to close with the help of brands like evolve beauty, the latest addition to the ethical skincare scene. The market needs an asos.com equivalent in the ethical beauty realm. We have the NET-A-PORTERS (and we quite like them) but there is room for more!

Recently, I spoke to evolve brand founder Laura Rudoe to figure out just what exactly is this eco smart beauty thing, and why the world needs yet another range of skincare and here's what I have to report back...

evolve, Rudoe's new eco smart organic beauty brand, began with her eternal search for the right beauty product. Growing up, Rudoe says she had quite acneic skin and it was only after years and years of homeopathy, good nutrition and significantly simplifying her skincare routine (using gentler brands like REN) that her skin started to look like it was on the mend, leaving the harsh products of yesteryear far behind. However, it wasn't until post-MBA that ex-consultant Rudoe truly honed her interest in ethical business and returned to the working world a changed woman as one of the original brains behind nude skincare.

With the help of fellow HBS alumnus Brian Meehan, she consulted for Whole Foods (owners of Fresh and Wild) by day while moonlighting with Meehan to create and launch nude. Rudoe recognised a gap in the skincare market for glamorous organic brands and speedily wrote the business plan. With financial backing and endless resources, Rudoe began her ethical business career in a fledgling entrepreneur's dream role as Director of Operations and Product Development at nude, learning first hand how to set up a company and becoming an expert on ethical beauty. By 2007 (and the launch of nude) she amicably parted ways with the brand, found herself working for an ethical venture capital firm and started the business plan for evolve (while concurrently brainstorming an idea to write a book on ethical businesses, which eventually became Good Ventures, the ethical product development company behind evolve... does this woman sleep!?).

What is evolve beauty eco smart skincare?

It's a range of twelve skin, hair and body products with squeaky clean wrap sheets. No nasties here. From formulation to the factory floor and in your door. Packaged in cool, pastel 100 per cent recycled milk bottles, these certified organic products are priced for the masses with an attention to detail that's usually reserved for high-end department store products. The ingredients are certified organic and food-based and the bottles are beautiful enough to display on your bathroom shelf with pride (very Scandinavian-minimalist looking, I must say), the ingredients are good for you (and the bunnies they don't test on) and the brand is doing its best to make both the beauty-scape and environment better.

Rudoe says she wants the brand to help everyone live a little better with high-quality yet accessible organic beauty products that can help us all make little changes. After all, those efforts add up to a sea change in collective behaviour if enough people do it. Welcome to the the world of ethical beauty, where brands practice what they preach... really. 

I personally have yet to trial the products but I am in awe of all good female entrepreneurs (and she is one of them) and am also truly intrigued by beauty brands that are evolving (no pun intended) in this direction. Follow this space for full product reviews in the coming weeks.

What is eco smart skincare?

Good question. Since it's a phrase unfamiliar to me until now, I did a bit of research and the loose definition I can cobble together is that eco smart skincare is a phrase that can be applied to products that are healthier and possibly greener with less environmental impact that help you live a bit better while also not compromising on quality simply to make bigger profit margins.

In a sentence, eco smart skincare is skincare that's environmentally friendly and human-friendly, generally speaking.

Personally, I believe the most environmentally thing one can do is simply use less of everything, but within the realm of reality, where we do have to use products everyday, evolve beauty is attempting to give you a smarter choice in what you buy and use to make your beauty consumption just that much better. And they're not sacrificing your product ingredients, brand integrity or the environment to increase margins. It's about making a good product and understanding there's a balance between making money and creating a valuable brand.

Peek inside the evolve beauty founder's bathroom cabinet:

She uses as little on her complexion as possible. Keep it simple, especially if you have sensitive skin. Laura swears by her Clarisonic, with or without evolve’s daily detox cleanser ('it works well with water too.'). Her simplified skincare routine includes cleansing after wearing makeup only, now with evolve's gentle cleansing melt. She uses a hand-blended facial oil now and again (she used a mix of wheatgerm and rosa mosqueta on her face and stretchmarks during pregnancy), and confesses to moisturising less-than regularly.

Hot products from the range

Gentle Cleansing Melt (£ 9.99 for 100ml)

Soap-free, fragrance-free and moisturising, this product is 100 per cent natural and contains only five ingredients. With warm water, it emulsifies and rinses clean away without the need for a muslin cloth. It was created because while Rudoe loved cleansing balms she loathed muslin cloths.

Mega Omega Moisture Cream (£ 10.99 for 200ml)

This body lotion uses organic Peruvian sacha Inchi Oil, the richest known source of Omega 3, 6, and 9, with Almond Peptides and Shea Butter to moisturise and soften.

evolve is available at evolvebeauty.co.uk, Content Beauty/Wellbeing, Lovelula.com and in stores at John Lewis and Planet Organic this month.

Wednesday
23Sep2009

Earn your sea legs at home with Voya Lazy Days

As far as beauty treatments go, it's pretty hard to re-create the real deal at home... a few candles by the side of the tub (and that's if (if) you can stand taking a bath), maybe some oils or bubbles, a scrub and a mask. You can have virtually all the bits and bobs there needed to re-create a spa at home but it still feels like home, with just a bit lower lighting and maybe a touch more fragrant.

However, I have come across a mind-bogglingly crazy product that might make home feel that much more like the spa... or the sea. If you're one of those who absolutely cringes as the feel of seaweed against the leg while swimming (followed by a quick doggy paddle as high up in the water as possible in the opposite direction to avoid any further run-ins, sort of like a cartoon), then maybe this product's not for you. If you don't mind a little tussle with the green stuff, though, then immediately buy Voya Lazy Days dehydrated seaweed... it re-hydrates (duh) in your bath! Get right in for a proper seaweed bath.

The seaweed is cut by hand by the people at Voya and apparently they've been doing this stuff for donkeys... can you think of introducing anything more foreign (yet fun!?) to your bathtub? Never before have I even imagined filling my tube with anything seaweed related unless in powder form or as an ingredient listed on the back of a bottle (which would decidedly NOT be filled with whole pieces of seaweed). I'm game though... seaweed's meant to have fantastic effects on the skin. It's full of minerals, apparently has a smoothing and tightening affect on the skin (read about all the health benefits of seaweed here). Personally, I love to eat it stuff (stop cringing, I won't eat the seaweed out of my bath) in full-on sheets (Nori) from the Japanese deli...

Back to Voya, a company I just think is the bee's knees... even if I am in no need of new products, I'd buy from them all the same, simply because I'm such a big fan. I mean, they sell hand-harvested de-hydrated seaweed for the bath!? It doesn't get much cooler than that. And, yes, lest I forget, they have an entire slew of other seaweed-rific products and a spa (if you're in Ireland any time soon). 

Who's ready to bring a little slice of the Irish mer home? 

Friday
11Sep2009

Buy beauty in bulk: Bliss Body Butter

Miss Malcontent is pretty spot-on (heh) with her assesment of Bliss being a brand that makes better body products than facial ones. The product that seems to get the most mileage? The Body Butter. And for those of you who do use it regularly, they've just launched a humongous 'Pro' size... it's like buying your beauty products at Sam's Club. The 32 ounce tub is $79 dollars in the states. The 8.5 ounce tube is $35. If you're really into economising and you know you're going to splurge on this stuff every month anyway, do yourself a favour and pay $2.47 an ounce instead of $4.12 an ounce. That's a savings worth buying in bulk for.